Sonar Basics - Marking More Fish

Sonar Basics – Marking More Fish on Your Hardwater Finder

From the day you get your first flasher, the ice-fishing universe is forever changed.  I was 10 years old, the year was 1989, and for 25 bucks I got my grandpa’s old Lowrance 2330 which he had since given up on “figuring out.”  It was fairly simple to operate, and even conceptually, didn’t seem a technological marvel for its time, but what it did for your fishing was borderline magical.  I screwed together some one-inch pine strips in the shape of a “T,” used electrical tape to secure the open-water transducer to the bottom of the wood, and set about dropping that ‘ducer into as many ice-holes as I could hand-auger.  Not only could I use it to catch fish and track how they responded to my bait, I could use it to find active fish before I even wet a line.  At the time, it was considered somewhat odd; almost a novelty.  Now, ice-fishing electronics are a multi-million dollar category, and the thought of fishing without one seems pointless.

Today, we have many options at our disposal.  Digital or mechanical, circular or flat-screened and square, there are a number of shapes, sizes, manufacturers, specs, and statistics to consume.  Instead of focusing on how they’re different, I’d like to highlight similarities to help everyone, regardless of brand, simply mark and catch more fish.

Undoubtedly, there’s an on/off switch, frequently connected to a setting which adjusts the depth of the display you’re fishing.  This is important, as you always want to be using the depth display that barely contains the depth you’re fishing.  If you’re in 32 feet of water, you want to be using the 40 foot scale, not the 80 or beyond.  Next, you’ll want to set your gain or sensitivity appropriately.  This is the other main adjustment on your flasher, and is of critical importance as it determines how “open” the receiver in your transducer is to gathering return sonar signals.  Your goal here is to set the gain as low as possible while still seeing your jig as a clearly defined mark.  Turn it too high, and you’re receiving a fair amount of noise in the form of double signals, and are also making the marks on your graph abnormally large.  This hinders your ability to see what’s going on by covering up valuable real estate on your sonar screen.    

Interference rejection (IR) is another topic to discuss.  Do you notice intermittent marks that show up, racing in a circular pattern, thus blocking your ability to see fish or your bait?  Work with nearby electronics users by adjusting your IR one unit at a time, partnering to remove interference for everyone.  Make sure gain settings are as low as possible to reduce the effect of this problem.  In deep water with hard bottom, expect this to be something you’ll need to address as sonar bounces off hard objects quite well, and over large distances has the opportunity to bounce off other signals that are produced by itself or other units.

All of these more basic tasks should become part of a routine that’s simply habitual every time you step onto a sheet of ice.  While they may seem rudimentary in their practice, you’d be surprised how many ice veterans run with high gain settings, no interference rejection, or the improper depth scale reading. 

Now, you need to focus on putting more fish on your screen, which of course comes down to where and how you’re fishing.  Without going into those topics entirely, make sure you’re fishing in a location where you’re likely to see some activity.  Choose a target-rich environment.  A pond or local lake where panfish are plentiful, such that you get a chance to study your ice electronics and learn them better.  If you have an underwater camera, even borrowed from a friend, try your hand at comparing and contrasting what you’re seeing on both your sonar and camera when fish are present.  That tip alone will fine-tune your skills with the sonar without ever having to drop a camera.

Another trick is to run with the widest cone angle setting you have.  That allows you to take in more lake-bottom real estate, and ultimately mark more fish.  Narrow beams can be run on steep drop offs or with other friends in close proximity to remove IR, but at first, run wide open.  Hole-hop and cover some ice-estate as well, as I’m a firm believer that when it’s possible to roam the open-ice, you’ll simply mark more fish to work that hopefully end up hitting the ice.  Feel free to swing the ducer in deep water, in an attempt to mark fish off to the sides of your hole.  This can work well for suspended crappies especially. 

For most sonar, observe how a fish at the edge of the cone angle starts at the weakest color or hue, then progressively moves to dark red or simply darker hues as the fish nears the center of the cone.  These are big cues on not just what you’re looking at, but how to best jig and offer your presentation to get bit.  Jigging too aggressively, especially when the signal is dark or red, is probably the number one deterrent to a fish biting, so learn to become more subtle as fish approach and colors change.

Drop your sonar over weeds too, such that you know the difference when you’re hole-hopping.  Typically, they offer a weaker signal in return, rather than the dark or red target of a fish.  Experiment in rocks and wood too, noting that while they produce a distinct and substantial return, they don’t move!

Marking more fish on your sonar simply equates to more fish caught, so spend ample time learning your electronics of choice, then make sure to present to as many fish as possible until your sonar becomes your underwater eyes.

You Bought a Wheelhouse - Now What?

A good generator, and 30-amp electrical hookup with a 15-amp converter aren't the first thing you think of after buying a wheelhouse, but you need power to fish!

Photo Credit - Matt Addington Photography

You Bought a Wheelhouse – Now What?

I’m an over-planner.  I simply have to “over-do” it to be confident in performing about any outdoor task, but even I was surprised at how much preparation can go into equipping your wheelhouse.  I know from experience that just as a properly rigged boat catches more fish, any time on the hard water is best served with a healthy dose of preparedness.  That said, with a wheelhouse, the fishing portion of the planning is just the beginning.  You’ll sleep out on the ice with this unit, making it as much a Recreational Vehicle (RV) as it is a fish-house.  Yet, with the fact that this house will sit on a sheet of frozen ice, camper kits or RV-lists  won’t fully equip you either.  Here are some sure-fire ways to be ready for everything, along with a list of what you might not have thought of.

Exterior

First think about all of the operating mechanicals that go on regarding the exterior of your wheelhouse.  Start from the hitch and go to the tail, thinking about both trailering and dropping the house.  You may need a drop hitch to properly balance your load.  Consider a fully adjustable one with multiple ball sizes such that you’ve always got it attached to your tow vehicle and you’ll never need to find a specific one for just your wheelhouse.    You’ll need everything from bolts, wire, and a full set of tools with which to help wield those extras.  You’ll also need a trailering kit, which is a simple plastic tub filled with a grease gun, shop towels, a 4-way tire wrench to change a flat, and a hub kit.  Pass on the bearing kits themselves and instead elect to replace the entire hub should you smoke a bearing in sub-zero temps. 

Don’t forget extra pins, especially the trailering ones, as these love to get lost in the snow.  Bring a chisel and jack to help out in the event of a freeze-down, wood blocks to prevent freeze-down, and a shovel to help bank snow around the exterior.  Consider a small propane torch should your door be prone to freeze-up with all the hot-to-cold created condensation.  Last but not least, throw in a head lamp or two should you have to fix anything in the dark.     

Heat and power are a requirement on the open ice, so make sure your propane tanks are full (and fully operational), and that you throw a portable generator into the truck as well.  There are lots of generator options out there, but keep in mind that sub-zero running may require a cold-weather kit.  A few gallons of gas may be needed to keep that generator running too, depending on your power needs.   

Fishing

Most modern houses come equipped with Catch-Covers, but you’ll need to purchase the hole-sleeves that form the connection between that open area in the floor and the ice-sheet itself.  Dedicated rattle reels for every hole are nice, but so are rod holders.  These days, you don’t have to choose as there are several aftermarket options that allow you to mount a simple receiver disk to a wall, then slip in and out a rattle reel or rod holder of your choice.

Of course you’ll need tackle, rod and reel combinations, and ice electronics.  Remember that electronics need a power source, so bring chargers, and also RCA or HDMI cable(s) to connect your underwater camera to the TV.  Many houses these days come with pre-wired in-wall connections for this.  Along those same lines, think about aeration of your bait cooler, and how you will both store and use bait for your stay. 

The Best of the Rest

Depending on your wheelhouse, the rest of the list is not meant to be exhaustive or full of “must-haves.”  It’s simply some ideas to get your mind headed in the right direction as you plan. 

·         Cooking – Dedicated pots, pans, dishes, silverware, seasonings, pizza pan, tinfoil, coffee pot, toaster, fillet knife, and cutting boards

·         Safety – Carbon-monoxide/smoke-detector, first aid kid, indoor/outdoor thermometer, and a ladder for bunks

·         Organization – storage baskets that fit in specific drawers and shelves, key ring hanger by the door, coat hooks for hanging items everywhere, and stackable totes for the bathroom area

·         Clean-up – Paper towel-holder, towel bar, toilet paper holder, area rugs, and a broom/dust pan with door clamp or holder for storage

·         Fun – Playing cards, board games, and movies

·         “Hacks” – Squeegee for cleaning floors after drilling holes, non-glazed ceramic tiles to line the inside bottom of the oven to prevent burning, 2” memory foam sleeping pads for extra comfort, corner shelves to make use of nooks and crannies especially near sleeping areas, and ceiling storage helpers to hold anything flat or low-profile like rulers, rods, etc.

Of course, with necessity being the mother of all invention, you could always just head out fishing with a notepad and pen to document what you’d want and when you’d want it.  Hopefully, this is a great head-start and you can refine to your own personal tastes from here.

The Right Ice Auger for the Job

The Right Ice Auger for the Job – Part 1

Electric Augers like the Strikemaster 40V Lithium have come a long way.

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

Head to any outdoors retailer in search of an ice auger, and you’re likely to be confused.  Colors of red, black, yellow, and green, each with several powerheads to drive a spinning bit, of which there are also several variations.  All of it just to cut a simple hole in the ice from which to fish.  For those that think this is overkill, I would agree, but also should point out that each of these features may directly impact the way you fish.  As part of a two-part series, I’ll deconstruct the powerhead, auger, and blade portions of your ice-cutter, then reassemble them in Part 2 to help you find an auger perfectly matched to your style of fishing.

Electric Powerhead – Electric is the rage, and for good reason.  No gas or exhaust fumes, and no carburetors to fuss with.  That said, be honest with yourself and how many holes you cut.  If the answer is more than 50 in thick ice, you’ll be needing either the latest and greatest Lithium-powered auger offered, or end up going straight to Gas and Propane models.  If you live in the northern portion of the ice belt, consider ultra-thick late-season ice should you fish during those times of the year and again, go right to the other powerhead option.

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

Gas/Propane Powerhead – Gas powerheads are still the most common and longest running product lines out there, because they work well.  Longevity here is due to plenty of engine tinkering over the years, as well as the fact that gasoline does a great job of providing the appropriate compression to power a transmission that spins a large metal bit.  Propane offers many of the same attributes on the cutting end, with the benefit of low or no exhaust, yet is a less efficient means of achieving that same combustion.  That simply means you’ll use more propane to achieve the same results, though it may be worthwhile if you’re looking for gas-like power through thick ice with low exhaust. 

Auger – Nearly all auger bits are metal, mostly because it has proven difficult over the years to mount metal blades on a flexible surface while still maintaining their ability to cut ice.  This can work for blades that don’t require a specific pitch or angle of attack to cut efficiently, but most of the quick-cutting options out there these days are metal.  Of course metal is much heavier, so there’s a tradeoff between weight and speed that you’ll have to choose between.  Sizes can range from 4”es to 10”, but spinning more auger bit, moves more ice, and thus requires more horsepower.  

Blades – I’m of the opinion that blade styles should drive the largest portion of your purchasing decisions, and here’s why; of the 3 main blade styles out there, each does something far better than the other. 

The chipper style blade is a serrated, angled blade that’s been around for quite some time.  It actively crushes and breaks the ice as the ice auger rotates downward.  This design has a number of advantages because of that pulverizing action, first and foremost being that it re-drills old holes with ease.  There’s no bouncing or jarring break-through when going back into a permanent that’s had frozen-over holes for two weeks, but because of the torque and crushing force required for this blade to auger ice, they tend to have gas powerheads atop them.  Still, they have a dedicated following, as the blades can be easily filed for sharpening, and are nearly bullet-proof, even when hitting sand or other debris on the ice.

Flat-style blades have also been around for some time, though almost primarily on hand-augers.  While they are curved along the length of their cutting edge, they sit almost flat against the ice, hence their name.  As a general rule, they cut rather inefficiently, which is a real problem with thick ice when human-powered.  That said, when spun fast enough on a power auger, either electric or gas, they provide a medium cutting speed and can also redrill old holes, though not as well as a chipper style blade system.  This hybrid style of blade systems has come back and gained in popularity when paired with electric augers.

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

The last cutting system is a shaver-style blade.  It is curved, both along the long edge, and short edge of the blade, as if someone grabbed both ends of the blade and twisted in opposite directions.  They’re often serrated, and lazer-sharp, relying on cutting angle and a precise pitch to shave and slice in a true corkscrew fashion.  They are by far the fastest cutting system, whether as a single-piece end bit, or with replaceable blades that typically require professional sharpening.  Those blades are precision cutting instruments that shave the ice, but do so aggressively, allowing the auger to drive deeper with each successive turn.  That said, the edges carved out make re-drilling old-holes a bit trickier than with the other systems.  To re-drill old holes with a shaver-style blade, you need to only proceed until water appears.  At that point, stop turning the bit, and simply lift up.  Continuing down and under the ice makes the edges of the auger flighting catch on the way up, and can create difficulty in pulling it above ice.  They’re also a little bit touchy when it comes to hitting debris or sand on the ice, so carrying replacements is a good idea.

In part two, I’ll describe a handful of anglers and what pairings match best to specific situations on ice.  While no one auger can do it all, the goal is to best suit the majority of icescapes you encounter.          

The Right Ice Auger for the Job – Part 2

Photo Credit - Ben Larson - In-Depth Media Productions

Now that you know not all augers are created equal, it’s time to provide some common ice fishing situations, and prescribe the right ice auger for the job.  Of course, there will always be variations to your fishing, in terms of everything from location and species, to ice thickness and the shelter you fish in.  If you’re going to settle on a single auger, you’ll likely need to put up with some of the inconveniences which certain powerhead, auger bit, and blade combinations create.  All of which we’ve been doing for years without even really knowing it.  That said, just as with different fishing rods, specialized tools can make any job more enjoyable.

Panfish-Only Anglers – It’s surprising to most anglers, but there’s few panfish, even exceptional trophy panfish that won’t fit through a 6” hole.  Most will fit through a 5” hole.  Why go so small?  Because it’s simply easier to drill more holes, faster, and with less effort than with larger auger bits.  For finicky gills and crappies, more holes can really make all the difference, such that have a large, heavy auger can not only require more time to drill the same amount of holes, it can prevent you from drilling more and finding more fish.  To me, the perfect panfish rig is a 6” shaver style blade and auger bit system, with a trusty electric power source of your choice on top of it. 

Southern Style – If you live in the southern portions of ice territory, consider a hand auger, but make sure it has the shaver or lazer-style blades.  You’d be amazed at how fast they’ll cut 4-8”es of ice, and chances are if you’re living here, you might not cut much ice in a season anyway.  This is a cheap way to make short work of ice, and step light while doing it.

Photo Credit - Ben Brettingen

Predator Chasers – If you chase big pike and lake trout, you’re somewhat committed to a 10” bit.  Also, because of the locations of these fish, you’re probably looking at thicker ice than usual, and a gas or propane powerhead will be required to turn those larger bits.  Some of the beefier electric units out there will spin such bits, but depending on how much ice and how many holes you’re cutting, you might be wishing you had more reserve run-time.  As far as blade-styles, you’re probably cutting a new hole each time, so the shaver styles will cut them faster and with less effort.

Wheelhouse Crowd – For anglers in a wheelhouse, fumeless is the way to go, as you’ll be occupying that same airspace for some-time after the holes have been drilled.  While there is the potential to re-drill old holes in the most extreme of circumstances, Wheelhouse anglers are typically pulling their house off the lake after each trip and relocating to a different lake or area each time.  In that respect, the advantage goes to a shaver-style system with a heavy-duty electric powerhead on top.  This allows you to move a few times per day even, as well as drill tip-up or extra scouting holes outside of your shelter without running out of battery power.  Consider the flat-style or hybrid blades should you keep coming back to the same wheelhouse day after day, weekend after weekend.  As for auger size, 8” or 10” is standard, with some anglers preferring a 10” hole because it freezes out slower, and other anglers preferring an 8” hole because fish have a harder time turning around inside of it and swimming down. 

Permanent Dwelling – If you re-located only a handful of times per year, your number one consideration should be re-drilling old holes.  While a chipper blade system will perform best here, few chipper systems exist on any platform but gas augers.  If the fumes bother you, go with an electric powerhead and flat-style blades.  If you’re split on the matter, utilize a propane powerhead with the chipper systems available for the easiest hole re-opening and relatively few fumes. 

Portable Patroller – For the angler that roams the open ice sheet, drilling to the ends of the horizon, the ultimate ice auger is gas-powered with shaver-style blades.  Nothing cuts easier, faster, or longer than this combination in a standard 8” size.  That covers almost all bases, and will serve you for about any ice situation without feeling like performance is a problem.  As I’ve written previously however, the new electric systems are seriously pushing the limits of what your mobile angler of today needs.  New Lithium powered models that punch hundreds of holes in a foot of ice will serve the vast majority of even the most auger-happy angler.  For the northern portion of the market however, you’ll be wanting gas from February forward, especially if you’ll be needing an auger extension as is common in that part of the ice belt. 

If you don’t fit any of these categories, I’m positive that by now you know enough about each feature and its attributes to build your own perfect machine.  What’s more likely is that you fit several of these categories at once.  At which point you’ll have to choose either what’s the most common type of fishing you do, or purchase another auger to serve the other end of your needs.  Yet another option is to buy additional auger bits that feature a different size or cutting system, such that one powerhead can turn both.  This is a great way to address a few situations at once, such that you’ll never be left needing more from your ice cutter.

Of course, the entire conversations demands the question, “Why does all this matter?”  The answer is that to any one individual, it may not.  To me however, each hole is a cast.  To the open water angler, recreating the exact same cast is only an option when it continues to produce.  Naturally, when that cast’s magic wears out, it’s time to cast elsewhere.  The same can be said for fishing on ice.  When I’m not catching where I’ve drilled, I drill more, and any impediment to me drilling more holes is a limit to the amount of fish I’ll catch.  Naturally, we make concessions for comfort, and employ a host of methods to make up for our unwillingness to move, yet even for the house-bound crowd, having the right auger for the job makes it far less of a “job.”

Success on Ice When You Can’t be Mobile

Tip-Ups offer a great way to cover ice-estate, even when you're hunkered down. (Also Pictured - Striker Ice Combat Gloves)

Much ink and article space has been given to the idea that mobility leads to more fish.  Yet even with lazer-fast augers, lightweight lithium-powered sonar, and warmer, form-fitting outwerwear the likes we’ve never seen before, we so often end up riding out a bite while sitting down, rather than kneeling or standing.  Though we may know the more productive play is to troll the open ice, weather among other things can make this difficult.  With that in mind, I’ve been told that 80% of our ice fishing brethren chooses shelter of some kind.  Increasingly, that’s in the form of a wheelhouse, where mobility is possible yet often impractical.  Still, even those in portable shelters avoid moving when at times it would likely be beneficial.  The challenge then becomes catching fish in whatever space you choose, knowing you won’t be venturing far from a home base.  Here’s a few methods I’ve used to put more fish on the floor when I’m hunkered down.

Location, Location, Location

It’s wise to consider “finding” before fishing.  This couldn’t be more true than for a wheelhouse weekend where you know you’ll be stationary for days on end.  At the very least, you want to locate yourself along some structural element that should attract fish even if not present at the moment.  Preferably, it’s a location that you’ve scouted, or at least drilled and dropped sonar on before committing to.  Though you’re likely anxious to drop down and fish, consider that just a few minutes scouting may determine the success of the entire fishing trip. 

Portable Strategies

With the advent of hub houses, the fact of the matter is that we’re often using these portable shelters more like permanent ones.  Still we know that these can be rather easily moved, so my approach is to put out a modest spread of baits, knowing full well that there’s the opportunity to easily move.  Most often, I’ll run one set-line – call it a bobber rod or deadstick – and do my best to run a jigging rod immediately nearby.  The setline usually is a plain hook or lightly dressed jig with active live-bait threaded on.  The jigging rod is a dinner bell.  Hard baits of all varieties work well here, especially loud baits with rattles that push vibrations throughout the water column to as many fish’s lateral lines as possible. 

The general idea is to draw fish into your spread so that you can show them your offerings, such that even if they don’t close on the really aggressive baits, they’re directly adjacent to a free-swimming minnow or more neutral enticement.  Keep in mind however that with a portable, you still have the option of moving throughout the day.  This means that bobber rods or deadsticks are more likely to come into play than tip-ups or rattle reels.  I find that keeping everything attached to a rod and reel allows for easier transport.

Permanent and Wheelhouse Approaches

I recoil from the thought that fishing out of a stationary shelter is limiting or otherwise lazy.  It certainly can be, but that would be like saying open water trolling is simply dragging crankbaits around until the dumb ones eat.  In the boat of a good troller, you might as well be in a science room with a lab-coat.  Variables abound, from depth, color, size, shape, bait-length, boat speed, line-distance, line-type, snap selection, location, etc., the opportunities for discovery are endless.  Soo too is it for an active wheelhouse or permanent.  Consider the house your personal lab, and a chance to really spread your wings and flex some muscles.

Tip-ups here come into play in a very big way, as you’re camping out for awhile or maybe the rest of the winter.  You can cover a sizeable distance in any direction, while offering various species at different depths, wholly different looks.  Rattle reels inside of the house become a big part of your strategy also in order to take advantage of the total number of lines you’re legally afforded given the number of people in your shelter.  On both looks I’m continually experimenting between different forms of live-bait and size, along with hook type (horizontal vs. vertical), line, weight, bobber vs. no-bobber, etc.  Like when trolling, let the fish tell you what the magic of the moment is and be ready to adapt immediately. 

Of course, ringing the dinner bell is just as important now, similar to the way that a fancy dinner spread is only possible if there are guests at the table.  Especially for long wheelhouses or permanent structures, consider people alternating holes, and fishing opposite ends to draw in fish from even greater distance surrounding.  I’ve personally seen on underwater camera the same fish identified by unique markings, a split fin, etc., directly seek-out an aggressive offering from either end of a 21-foot shelter.  That same fish won’t always commit to the fish-bell, but quite often you look down at the nearby bobber to see it buried beneath the ice. 

Stationary doesn’t have to mean sedentary, so keep working out there.  Of course, you can take a break and let the fact that just having lines down and fishing is better than sitting on the couch.  Especially during prime-times and low-light periods however, lockdown and be ready to tend a variable spread of differing bait options and delivery methods to make the most of your time on the water.     

Wheelhouse Buying Guide

The wheelhouse market has exploded in recent years, giving way to some really comfortable fishing and even year-round fun.  That said, the options these days are endless, as can be the price tag, so it’s up to you to do the homework and get the most bang for your buck.  I recently put in an order for my own wheelhouse, and know from experience that settling in on a few key purchase points will help make the process go more smoothly.  Not only will you fish better, you’ll sleep easier knowing that no matter what part of the buying spectrum you bought in at you’ll be getting the most you can for the money.

Size– It’s easy to say that you’ll want the biggest house on the block, but think long and hard about how you fish.  While an smaller model may fit the budget better, my dealer tells me that there’s a good percentage of buyers that trade back in for bigger houses a year or two down the road.  If you’re already on the fence regarding how big you’ll go, you may want to err on the larger sizes.  Tandem axle trailers, though scary to some, offer a good degree of comfortable trailering on-the-road, and offer larger capacities in terms of weight and storage when in use. 

Structure - While you’re at it, what’s the frame made out of?  Steel and wood are cheaper, but they also rust and rot.  Aluminum frames and body make for a much lighter and potentially more rigid shell, while solving many of the ongoing maintenance concerns to the backbone of your trailer.  Speaking of ongoing, a 3-5 year warranty should be standard for any well-made wheelhouse, but all the warranty in the world won’t make much difference if the company folds.  That’s why I’d recommend going with an experienced manufacturer who’ll be around to answer the phone down the road if you have questions or issues.

Resale – This is confusing to many people, as the last thing on anyone’s mind when considering a big wheelhouse purchase is when or how they’ll be selling it.  That said, the longtime saying regarding the first and last day of a boat’s ownership is the best really also applies here.  Any big-ticket item like this will have a sunset date, and if you’re unsure as to when that may occur, it really behooves you to spend up on quality in the event you do own it for many, many years.  Just like any bit of modern technology, the better you buy at the outset, the less outdated you’ll be in years to come.  The good part is that Craigslist, Facebook ads, and dealership visits can give you a great picture of what resale may be 3 years, 5 years, or more down the road.

Quality - A good start is to look for fine craftsmanship inside and out.  Is the interior wood finished, the floor insulated, and wiring connections soldered and heat-shrunk?  Many wheelhouses offer what appear to be ample storage and cupboard space, but open the doors and you’ll find plumbing and heating equipment, pipes, and electrical runs.  Another place to look are the windows, of which any old Recreational Vehicle (RV) design is fine until it’s 20 below and condensation with re-freeze disallows you actually using them to vent.  Look for home-quality glass and substantially built offerings from all wall fixtures, shelves, cabinets, doors and windows.

Versatility – I’m a firm believer that with the cost of any wheelhouse these days, it better be just as good in the summer as it is in the winter.  To that end, you’re looking for many features found in the latest RV’s, which includes an installed Air Conditioning unit on top.  Many models come wired for it, but know that to make it truly flexible for all seasons you’ll likely want it cooled.  If you need to haul an ATV, UTV, or other items, consider a drop-door in the rear that’ll allow you to drive into your “toy-hauler.”

RV Certification - It's a little-known fact that summer use of a wheelhouse can be limited depending on whether or not your unit is RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) certified.  Depending on the municipality, along with state and local regulations, some campgrounds may not permit the use of non-RV-certified wheelhouses.  This is because RV-certified house manufacturers are subject to random inspections, and adhere to codes that cover electric, plumbing, brake lights, heating and fire safety.  Ultimately, if you're interested in parking your fish-house on more than just ice, this could be a big part of your purchasing decision that is both convenient and protective.

Storage and Carrying Capacity – Storage is what really sets these wheelhouses apart, as you’ll often be packing for extended stays with multiple people.  Keeping organized on ice is a key to your fishing success when dodging all of the items your average hotel room contains, so well thought-out options that fully utilize the whole space are a premium.  So is the vehicle weight rating.  If you’ll be using this house in the summer as a “toy-hauler” you need to figure in the weight of the unit you’re hauling, plus gear, RV water and/or waste tanks.

Dealership – Shopping for the right dealer can be as important as the actual purchase of your wheelhouse, as working with someone local and trustworthy is both convenient and crucial to this process.  A good dealer works with product-lines that have a strong support network, with both dealer and brand supporting one another before AND after the sale.  Use common sense, and see how dealers react to the questions you pose.  If they’re defensive, have excuses, or otherwise don’t address your concerns, chances are they’re not someone you should consider doing business with.      

Price vs. Value – For most, this is where the rubber meets the road, and getting what you pay for is evident in a number of ways.  The trick is evaluating these options, and determining what you can and cannot do without.  In other words, I found that similar to a boat purchase, you get what you pay for.  Often, extra dollars invested in the front end reap rewards several-fold in terms of trouble-free service, longer-lasting products, and higher re-sale value when you eventually go to sell it.  Needs change constantly as our families, fishing, and lifestyles adapt, and it helps to go into this process knowing that you can always sell, upgrade, or trade-in to fit the needs of the future.  That is, provided you’re buying in a popular brand, model, and size such that you’ll always have the opportunity to get out from under it should anything change.  For that reason, I’m a strong proponent in buying reputable, well-built equipment with a strong warranty and track record.  Treat it well, and you’ll have a wheelhouse that serves you well and maintains value over time no matter how you use it.