Targeting Truly Massive Crappies

Ryan Repke asks:

I'm just wondering if you knew of any lakes that produce big crappies. I'm all about selective harvest. I release fish 99% of the time and have tight lips when it comes to spots as I'm sure you do too. Not looking for your spots but any info would be greatly appreciated. I mainly fish pool 2 for walleye and crappie. My biggest is 15 and I really want to beat that PB. I've researched a lot on stocking reports and creel surveys but just can't seem to find a lake that produces 16+ inch crappies. Thanks

Thanks Ryan.  I think it a noble quest to get out there and break previous personal-bests, especially by putting in the work to track down a specific species.  I can start out by telling you something you probably already know by now, in that a 16”+ crappie is a rare find.  While there may be certain water bodies that kick them out with more regularity, I think the key to understanding here is that few kick them out with consistency, and even more rarely to the same individual.     

I can speak from experience in saying that most of the truly big crappies I’ve taken have been on accident, while fishing for walleyes or bass, and my personal best at 16.25”es didn’t come from Rainy, Upper Red, or Lake of the Woods.  It came from a small farm pond while bass fishing a cold front with a ¼ oz. jig and 4” white curly tail grub.  Others in that 16” category were taken with jig/minnow presentations early season when fishing shallow for walleyes, and in northern WI muskie waters, both being lakes that get zero press for their crappies.  The pattern here being that there was no pattern or good tip-off and indication that giant crappies would be there.     

Many others in the 15” to 16” category come from famed northern waters previously mentioned, but are increasingly in short supply.  Instead, it’s the nearby contributing waters, nearly always difficult to get to, barely connected to these historical big-fish-factories, and not well-known for crappies that most of my best fish come from.  These northern fish are old, so they rely on time and little pressure to grow this size.  There are quite a few obscure northern MN waters that hold fish over 15”es, but for every 1 fish over 16”es, you’d have to catch at least a hundred 15’s.      

There exist several record-keeping groups that track master-angler, trophy caliber fish of all species, and this is a good place to start if you’re hunting for monsters.  Keep in mind, not all people are entirely honest in their accountings of fish sizes (real shocker there), but patterns still will emerge.  Creel and stocking reports are moderately helpful, but the gillnets should tell a story, particularly if larger individuals are present in any number whatsoever.  Keep in mind you’re talking about a very small percentage of the lake’s total crappie population. 

The two biggest factors that contribute to large crappies I’ve taken are both timing (seasonal) and presentation.  My biggest crappies have come in the mid-spring time-period around docks and shorelines sometime around the spawn, and during the first few weeks of the ice fishing season.  Both are opportunities to catch big crappies poised to out-compete pesky smaller fish.  To attract big fish and deter smaller ones, fish big.  In the spring, that means larger jigs and plastics.  Fish slowly, but accept that fact that you’re trying to keep 12” and smaller fish away.  In the winter, that means spoons, 3” jig/plastic combinations, and rattle lures like the Slab Rap or Rippin’ Rap.  Most of my biggest winter crappies have come by walleye fishing with walleye-sized baits. 

I wish you luck, and let me know when you crack that pig!

Joel     

Favorite Weedy Walleye Tactic

David Cook asks:

I would say I'm above average walleye fisherman and catch a lot of walleyes but one thing I have been trying to figure out is how to catch them in the weeds. I can not figure out a method or maybe it's just the confidence in doing it to be successful doing it. With that being said here's my ?. What do you like to do or what is your favorite way to catch walleyes in the weeds? I have seen so many videos of people catching walleyes in the weeds and having super success. I try pulling Spiners over the tops but I can not figure out right weight or amount of line to have out. I always just snag weeds right away. Any help or advice would be awesome. I have tried for 2 years and I can just not get it.

Thanks
David

Dave – You’re not alone.  It’s a part of my own game that I’d like to get better at.  The guys I know that are great at finding walleyes and weeds virtually live there, relying on weed bites throughout the year for resident fish that are always there in at least some number. 

There’s a few ways I’ve been successful in getting walleyes to bite in the weeds, and much depends on time of year, where you’re fishing, and what types of weeds you’re targeting. My favorite way is definitely to rig around deep cabbage edges, and even within if sparse enough.

Knowing your weeds is important.  Cabbage is considered a broad-leafed, rooted plant in our lakes, and to me is the premium in fish-holding capability.  Coontail is a close second, though there are many species that hold fish, especially in the absence of the big two mentioned above.   

The first challenge to finding fish then is identifying great cabbage.  Being a map nerd with a natural resources background, I’m fascinated by the amount of great information the MN DNR has on its Lake Vegetation Reports.  While not available for all lakes, there are detailed maps with vegetative reports on species, locations, and abundance for the fishiest walleye “weeds” in all of our lakes.  Research the lakes you fish, and study these reports closely to see if there aren’t some prime weedbeds that exist in key locations.  To me, these are cabbage locations with an interesting twist, inside turn, or point, with access to broad sandy shallows inside, and immediate depths outside the weedbed.    

Early on, a lot of lakes I fish weeds for have the deep end of that cabbage being around 10-14FOW.  Fishing then when it is sparse, you can drag rigs in and amongst the weeds themselves, but need turbid, stained water or a good chop with some overcast conditions to make it a real winner.  Otherwise you’re just pushing fish around the shallows with your boat.  The perfect weed bite lakes in my opinion do not have crystal clear water, but have enough clarity to support ample weed growth to depths in the mid-teens by mid-summer.

Early I’ve pulled shiners, rainbows, or even large creek chubs on a short leash (3 foot leader or less), with a heavy 1/2oz. bullet sinker and a float.  This is a great early season big fish technique.  Later, as weeds develop more, I’ll float a worm up off the bottom a bit.  My experience is that it takes some floatation to keep away from the bases of those stalks which are the snaggiest and least forgiving.  You may tangle in the leaves or upper portions of the stems, but can easily pull through here.  Detecting fish vs. weeds is something that takes time and feel.  Especially with crawlers, gills in that same cabbage love to harass you.  That said, there’s many times I’ve caught walleyes in with gills on early weed bites so don’t be discouraged. 

A good way to get the feel and reduce snagging is to take a VMC Walleye Wide Gap hook , size 4 or 6, and texas-rig the crawler by just burying it into the body.  The larger gap allows that worm to collapse on the hookset, and though you will convert more bites to fish in the net by leaving the hook exposed, the frustration factor in not snagging as many weeds will keep you in the game.

Stick with it, try different lakes, and grow your confidence in this technique as it’s worked well for me.

Crappie and Bluegill Spawn

Bobby Kuenen asks:

How far out from  the crappie/gill spawn are we? I've been fishing the lakes around Faribault and catchin bass but just starting to see some panfish up in the shallows.

Hi Bobby - I've been out a few times including opener, and just fished a bit yesterday.  All I can say is man, what a difference from near 70 degree water temps to the 56-58 degrees I saw on Thursday.  

On the opener, we had 80+degree air temps, and crappies were around their beds, appearing to be finished from the few lakes I was on.  Bluegills were starting to move in and were just off the weed edges eating everything.  Everything now is in a bit of shock from what I saw.  There were fish shallow on the inside weedlines, but much more inactive than I'd seen before the cold weather we've been having.

Generally speaking - crappies spawn first in that 55-60 degree area, with gills next in that 68-70 degree mark.  That said, this spring hasn't been normal with that big swing of cold and rain.

From what I'm observing in southern MN and western WI, crappies appear to be done with some visible nests still holding a fish or two.  Bluegills were just pushing into the shallows around opener but had not been building beds on the lakes I've been on, and they'll be set back here until water temps gradually get where they need to be and stay there for a week or so.  Should that happen, it'll all come at once!  

Keep in mind that each lake is different, and water temps both leading up to the cool down, and how quickly they've rebounded will play a strong role in the progression of the spawn for each species.  

Braid Benefits

Chip Timm asks:

I mainly fish with a swim jig and plastics for walleye and crappies in Wisconsin. Could you simply explain the pluses and minuses for using braided line? I have never used it but have heard from others that it is the way to go.

Thanks for the question Chip - I think what you're hearing out there is a sentiment echoed by a good number of anglers that switch from mono to braid for a host of applications.  The benefits are many, and immediately noticed.  First and foremost, braid is much more sensitive, transmitting a great dose of extra vibration in the form of "feel" to your bait, bottom, structure, and/or a fish that eats.  Also importantly, braid stretches very little, increasing the ability of many to drive hooks into fish, especially on long ends of casts.  Because of its construction, your average braid is more durable in terms of abrasion resistance, so it fishes well in a number of snaggy environments from trees, to rocks, and even zebra mussel infested areas of bottom.  

Downsides would be some of the upsides.  Because of the lack of stretch in the line, some applications like pulling cranks, leads to people pulling hooks out of fish's mouths.  A softer rod with a more moderate action helps to diminish this effect while still getting all the benefits of braid.  Another downside would be the fact that braid is a "hard-line" and is not semi-transparent.  These opaque lines are then more visible in the water, but this effect can be nullified by simply tying in a section of fluorocarbon.  Sometimes in river current, I'll have a mono-rod that I fish to test the effect of current on the line, as each type cuts through water differently.  

All in all, I'm a huge braid guy, and think the benefits far outweigh the downsides.  Not all braids are created equal however, and depending on what you're doing, you may want to consider a few different options.  I'm a fan of Sufix 832 Advanced Superline in 10-20lb. test.  You can fish lighter line for sure, but I like the stiffness and performance of the slightly heavier line.  This is especially true with casting crankbaits that tumble and can potentially tangle in your line.  Braid that is too soft or supple can create issues with tangles and wind-knots.

For light-jigs, clear water and long casts, I prefer the Sufix Nanobraid.  The stuff casts a mile and really performs better than mono varieties on small reels.

Joel

Trolling Crankbaits for Walleye: Spring to Summer

Blayne Kasper asks:

I am just wondering if you have any quick tips to trolling crankbaits for spring walleye (speed, amount of line out/depth, equipment) that sort of thing. I usually fish smaller to mid sized lakes in Central Minnesota, and I am relatively new to this method and wanted to try it out more this summer.

Hi Blayne, this is a big topic, but I’ll do my best to boil it down for your specific area.  Walleye season opens in mid-May where you’re fishing, so spring trolling there is a somewhat relative term to that time period. 

As a general rule in lakes, most early season trolling works well with a big wind, as fish locations tend to be shallower during this time of year and overhead boat traffic can spook fish.  That said, you do run the full gamut, with some clear lakes that will likely never have a good crankbait bite with the exception of maybe dusk or after dark, and some lakes that are murky and turbid enough to enjoy a good shallow crankbait bite no matter what the wind does.  Still, wind will concentrate fish on shorelines and make for a prime trolling run.  For this type of fishing, I start with #5 Shad Raps  or #5 Smash Shads (for rattle) long-lined on #10-20 Sufix 832 or mono between 75-150 feet behind the boat depending on depth I’m trying to achieve.  As a general rule, be as close to the bottom as you can, often “ticking” it occasionally” without rolling or fouling. 

In clearer systems, consider planer boards to run your baits away from the boat towards shore, as you hover over deeper water and avoid driving over fish.  Some well-known systems like Upper Red Lake, Leech, and others allow you to pull shallow diving crankbaits on boards in as shallow as 4FOW and catch walleyes like crazy.  Planer boards or no, speeds should range from 2 – 3mph traditionally, with big winds often kicking up the preferred speed over 4mph. 

As fish move into summer patterns from near shore breaklines to off-shore structure, lead-core trolling really comes into play.  Don’t be scared by the specialization, as it’s a really effective tactic.  Make an investment into two St. Croix Eyecon trolling rod setups of equal length; longer if you’re going to try to troll other rods with them, or mid-lengths if they’ll be the only two rods being used.  The moderate actions on these rods really put more fish in the boat, especially with braid, as they give a bit while allowing the fish to get the bait all the way into its mouth. 

Get a linecounter reel and spool it with backing as needed to fill the entire spool with #18 leadcore line.  If you’re uncomfortable with this step, any reputable sporting goods store can do it for you.  Remove lead from the last few inches of line, then tie your favorite braid/mono knot to connect a length of #10 fluourocarbon leader and snap for the lure.  You can adjust the length of your leader from 30 feet in extremely clear bodies of water like Mille lacs, down to 3 feet in turbid systems like the Mississippi River. 

Find fish with your electronics that you’d like to target and start a tenth of a mile or more away to get your trolling run figured out.  Select baits, reset your line-counter, and let out line a few “colors” (10 yard segments) until you start to detect bottom.  Reel up until you’re just making contact occasionally and hold depth even while going 2.2 – 3.0mph.  Let out line to cover deeper water, and reel it in to effectively fish shallower while covering your bases in proven color patterns.  For me, that’s a mix of basic colors like perch, red craw, firetiger, purpledescent, etc.

This is a big topic, but hopefully I’ve covered a few key points that will help put more fish in the boat this summer.

Joel

When To Go Fishing?

Jacob Kruse asks:

I've been a big fan of your work since your time at In-depth Outdoors and have enjoyed your latest videos with Tony Roach. I always love watching you catch big gills.

What are your thoughts on time of day, weather, barometric pressure and lunar phase affecting fishing or when you should be looking at getting out? Particularly relating to bluegill and other panfish. With young children my fishing time is limited, so I figure why not try to optimize when you can get out.

It's funny, the exact moment I read this I was eating lunch at Hunter's Point on Mille Lacs with Tony and I showed it to him.  His response?

"Go fishing anytime and every-time you can.  You may get hit by a train tomorrow."

My thoughts these days are much the same as his, but I fully understand when you're coming from.  More and more often, the pressure to catch fish surpasses the idea of just going fishing.  So to maximize your time on the water, I've found that 60% of the time the following works everytime:

• Fish pre-frontal conditions - These are signified by any change in the weather, typically for the worse, where calm stable weather gives way to precip, winds, or other storms.
• A stable barometer provides the best long-term fishing as fish settle into more predictable locations and patterns, while the hottest or fastest fishing is in the hours when the barometer has reached the "shoulder" of the slope and is starting to decline.  Continual peaks and valleys make for yo-yo-like fishing patterns and inconsistent action.
• Use a site like Weather Underground to show the graph of relative barometric conditions.  
• Lunar phases tend to affect predatory fish more from the research that's out there, and bluegills don't feed after dark in "most" lakes.  There are clear water bodies and lakes with active night-time invertebrates that are the exception to that rule.
• Early and late is always the best, but it's better to find them during the day and move with them if you can.

Per Tony's advice, don't look for reasons not to fish, but if you get the choice you're usually best served by heeding the above advice.  That said, I've had incredible days in bluebird conditions with pressure high enough to give every fish in the lake a headache, but they didn't mind.  All the more reason to hit it when you can!

Joel

Small Water Gills

Joel Gohman asks:

When going to a new small body of water with no idea of structure or where the fish will be, what are you tactics to finding them quickly and efficiently?

Perhaps the best part about backwoods secluded gills is that the water is small!  Many of the location issues and difficulty finding bluegills we have in larger systems can be eliminated in the smaller ones by brute force.  Plain and simple, sometimes you need to drill out the likely depths until you find what's there, or are satisfied that you've looked long and hard enough to find them if they were.

Still, there are some tips to finding a place or two to start.  First and foremost, I scour the aerial photography and look at the shape/structure of the lake.  Perfectly round lakes are somewhat rare, and any irregularity can be a tip-off.  Inside turns at the bases of points, neckdowns, or where the lake comes to a corner, especially if it's surrounded by steeper shoreline can be a great location to start.  This is doubly true if you've got great weeds at the top or upper end of the inside turn once you do start your drilling.  

To get a better feel for lake contours, even when none are available, I use LiDAR elevation data to get a good feel for the surrounding shoreline.  This has been recently acquired for the state of Minnesota, and in parts of Wisconsin too.  For Minnesota, go to the MN Topo viewer to look at incredibly accurate (1m ground resolution) terrestrial contours along lake edges with the idea that steep shorelines (or broad and flat ones) extend into the lake itself.  

You can also use these data to eliminate poor water.  A swamp to one end generally indicates shallower water a good ways into the lake, so you can eliminate exceedingly shallow and non-gill habitat that way.  You can also eliminate water by looking at Google Earth and its various years of photography available.  Water that is weed-choked and annually blanketed by emergent and submergent vegetation will typically not hold good gills unless it's the last available habitat.  

How To Get Involved in the Outdoors Industry?

Cody Wiesmueller of Ripon, WI asks:

My name is Cody Wiesmueller from Ripon WI. I am 18 years old and one of my biggest goals in life is to work with some of the biggest ice fishing companies and travel, produce television shows, promote products at shows, etc. I have sponsorship experience but recently I have had a really hard time getting any type of company to notice me and believe in me. Seeing as how you've become really successful in the fishing industry I would like some advice. I attend shows and talk to various companies. I really feel like I am qualified to work with any company. I make connections but nothing ever comes of them. Any advice is great. Thanks Joel.

Hey Cody - I get this question quite a bit, and I remember asking it several times myself when I was trying to work my way up in the industry.  It's a tough question, with no simple answer.  There's even a book or two devoted to the subject.  I'll offer the same advice that a great friend and brand manager of a national fishing company offered me more than a decade ago.  The thoughts are his, and I've found them to be wholly accurate and important.

Fishing Industry Thoughts:

You need to think of yourself as a business. You must make the initial capital investment in your business in order to sell your product to a sponsor.  Being a skilled angler is not enough (it’s expected).  What makes you attractive to a sponsor is thought leadership and influence.  Most brands/products/manufactures will have been in business and selling well without your help, your “business plan” must be centric to explaining “why” they need you (not the other way around).  That’s where your investment comes in.  You must first invest in developing your “business” because the early years will be 99% funded by you with 1% support from the industry.  Your “Business plan” should be to reverse those numbers over a period of time.  How quickly you get there is determined by how hard you work.

 Set your expectations equal to your effort, knowing most start up business don't turn a profit for the first 5-7 years, so figure out a way to fund yourself. Whether that’s guiding, retail sporting goods, normal 9-5 gig.... but do it in a manner that allows ample time on the water, because there is no better credibility than a big fish & a bigger grin.

 Location - Is your market is currently under served?  Is it a destination/vacation area?  If so, this works in your favor in that you have a dense population of local anglers as well as a ton of visitors thirsty for information.  Your job will be to promote the fishery as much as yourself. Spend some time doing your due diligence to better understand and duplicate this.  There are plenty of case studies out there (Jason Mitchell + Devils lake), (Tony Roach + Mille Lacs), etc, all multi species anglers that promote the area and in doing so themselves.  You see they know these are destination lakes with healthy fisheries therefore people will want/seek information to have a successful day on the water.  Be the person that gives them that information & make it easy to find.   All the examples above are guides turned promoters. They did the hard work years ago and are now reaping the rewards.  They are all trusted thought leaders of the sport but that didn’t happen overnight, their credibility was earned one hook set at a time.

Decide what to be and go be it - Specialize early on. Think of it like opening a restaurant in your area. We both agree your location would support a restaurant to feed locals & travelers, but what kind?   Burger, BBQ, Taco?   

 Are you going to be a buffet and serve up information year round on all of that, or are you going to be specialty focused?  Again, do your due diligence/market research from a competitive stand point.  Who is already successful in your area, what are they doing, who are they doing it with, how do you fit in, will you create enemies?  A buffet has more inventory, but they make it up in volume whereas a specialty restaurant has less inventory and makes it up on margin.  Point being are you going to do a lot of things and be all thing to all people, or a few things really good?  Either way you can be successful but make sure you know what your signing up for.  One is a shotgun blast that requires a pellet load, the other a rifle shot that has to hit center of mass.  Are you going to be a big fish in a small pond (specialized) or a small fish in a big pond (All things to all people)?  It’s easy to raise one’s profile in a small segment.  Ice fishing is a market size of roughly 2 million anglers.  There is roughly 12 marquee thought leaders to serve the market all geographically based and so on, but you can get more blanket coverage by being all things to all people, but raising ones profile in larger segments (Open water / Bass) requires more work as there are thousands of regional thought leaders with long lasting relationships serving the industry.  Either way you go, your product is credibility and influence because without it, you have no basis in creating a path to purchase towards the gear/brand you endorse.  Cause at the end of the day, if you cannot convert sales for your sponsor you have no value to them.

Once you select the segment, your next step would be to select the gear you want to use/promote. Again do your market research - Let’s use ice fishing as an example OK.

Nobody wants to represent/endorse “junk products or brands” but there is a good better best that all sell well in each category. One could rate shelters as such good/better/best.  In every case, the good is volume based more unit sales require more support so getting on a crew like that is easier.  The best is not volume based.  A company like that spends more money on development & quality and less on marketing with the mindset good products sell themselves.  They invest in the product -vs- the marketing of it, so getting on their crew is a little harder, but in the long run worth it, as aspirational brands make the credibility factor easier.  Next you need to explore the need aspect.  Anglers on Lake of the Woods “need” quality as they make 20 mile runs out to the fishing grounds daily whereas an angler in Iowa that has limited ice and a shorter season can get by with any shack...

Determine what’s the right product mix for the style of fishing suited for your area.  Once you determine this decide which products/brands offer the unique selling position and cater best to your area, then go into retailers and find out how those products are selling.   If they are already selling well, it’s no mistake, if they are not, there’s your opportunity to reach out to the Manufacturer and offer assistance in growing sales in area.  Remember you are a business, most new businesses fail, failure is the result of poor planning.   Spend a lot of time formulating your business plan, determine if it’s possible, then go execute it.

Marketing - Frequency, Consistency, & Reach.  This should become your bible. Look at In-Fisherman Frequency -  40 years of TV programing every Sunday morning.   Consistency - same slogan, messaging, position “catch more and bigger fish”.  Reach nationally broadcast multimedia organization (TV, magazine, syndicate articles...).  That being said they started out in the same boat you are. They grew up in Chicago, and moved to the Brainerd area, became successful guides and tournament anglers.   That drew the attention of Jerry Mckinnis (I think it was Jerry if not someone else that had a show back then) They filmed a show one day with Jerry, and the very next day Ron looked at Al and said, “we can do this,” and so they did.   Reach is the most important part,  remember everyone can catch fish, your value to the industry is reach.  Kevin Van Dam’s reach is by winning Tournaments (Consistently see how this word keeps coming up) the Lindners do it via TV/print. This day in age it’s easier than ever. 20 years ago you needed a larger investment in that the medium wasn't free (TV, Radio, Print were large investments, i.e., production cameras, cameramen, editing suites, commercial spot sales people, broadcast airtime fee’s...)  Now a kid with a hot stick and a go-pro can create a YouTube channel that creates more views than Fox sports north programming (Look up un-cut angling YouTube views/subscribers or In-Depth Outdoors YouTube views/subscribers.) Follow their formula. One is entertainment based and one is information based in creating a following. Both have gathered an audience large enough to attract sponsors. How will you gather your audience must be part of your business plan and fit the product mix (Serious brands require serious influencers or are technical sales)

 The rest of the playbook is as follows:

 Build relationships with the brands you want to target. Don’t ask for a thing (that’s a turn off).  This is an old boy’s network, so become one of the old boy’s. Frequently (there's that word again) send them an email telling them how you caught a fish because of their product or because of a unique feature only they offer.   Include a picture.  Emails like these travel all through the office.  It’s like getting a thank you card.   Do it often enough and eventually you will strike a relationship with a decision maker within the organization.   Call them up in the off season, find out what new products are coming out tell them why that will be successful in your area, because after all they now their product, but you know your area and how it fishes.  Eventually they’ll ask you to do more.   Point is don’t ask for anything until you have a relationship. 

Tourism councils/Bureau The local community has budgets and resources dedicated to driving in tourists dollars associated with the resources. Find out how you can become part of the similar objective. This won’t happen overnight, but is a key ingredient.

Local writers Writers write and fishermen fish. Do you want to spend your time fishing or writing about fishing? Writers are always looking for a story (cause that’s what they are paid to do.  Call/email them build a relationship with them. Read their articles send them an email when the write a good one telling them how much you appreciate it... When you’re on a hot bite, tell them the story send them a picture. Give them a reason to write about you and eventually they will.

Digital & Social media. Post Consistently on fishing forums pick one or do all (Fishing MN, Lake State Fishing, In-Depth outdoors) all have regional threads dedicated to your area. Give updates on water conditions, bites, species... Do enough to build credibility, but walk the razors edge of not pissing of the locals and killing a bite with too much pressure.....

Live a clean life. It’s worth saying, one stupid mistake like a DUI or Fish and game violation can destroy any credibility you have. In this day in age with all the special regulations make sure that you know every one of them. You’ll be under a microscope and local angers pissed that you’re promoting their hot spot or an envious competitor will be looking to knock you down.   Don’t give them a reason.

Good Years & Bad Years - Expect change.  It’s the nature of the industry.  Expect change that is out of your control.  A relationship you have with a brand could change overnight.  As long as you are valuable to the brand the relationship won’t matter.  Every business ebbs and flows, don't ever get discouraged.

Take your time and build it right. Be in it for the long haul. Nothing happens overnight. But everything that’s worth it is worth working towards.  Your business should start today (register on a forum search for a writer) and be self-sufficient in 6-10 years.

Let me be the first to tell you that you can’t do this and you will fail. Everyone you love and everyone you respect will eventually say this to you.  As long as you feel the magic that happens when your line is ticked, you are impervious to that statement.  It’s easy to make a living, everyone does it.  You can go out and get any job you want, make money and fish on the weekends, do it for 40 years, retire, and fish every day. They say “if you do what you love, you’ll never work a day in your life” if that’s what you want, I just gave you the play book.