Success on Ice When You Can’t be Mobile

Tip-Ups offer a great way to cover ice-estate, even when you're hunkered down. (Also Pictured - Striker Ice Combat Gloves)

Much ink and article space has been given to the idea that mobility leads to more fish.  Yet even with lazer-fast augers, lightweight lithium-powered sonar, and warmer, form-fitting outwerwear the likes we’ve never seen before, we so often end up riding out a bite while sitting down, rather than kneeling or standing.  Though we may know the more productive play is to troll the open ice, weather among other things can make this difficult.  With that in mind, I’ve been told that 80% of our ice fishing brethren chooses shelter of some kind.  Increasingly, that’s in the form of a wheelhouse, where mobility is possible yet often impractical.  Still, even those in portable shelters avoid moving when at times it would likely be beneficial.  The challenge then becomes catching fish in whatever space you choose, knowing you won’t be venturing far from a home base.  Here’s a few methods I’ve used to put more fish on the floor when I’m hunkered down.

Location, Location, Location

It’s wise to consider “finding” before fishing.  This couldn’t be more true than for a wheelhouse weekend where you know you’ll be stationary for days on end.  At the very least, you want to locate yourself along some structural element that should attract fish even if not present at the moment.  Preferably, it’s a location that you’ve scouted, or at least drilled and dropped sonar on before committing to.  Though you’re likely anxious to drop down and fish, consider that just a few minutes scouting may determine the success of the entire fishing trip. 

Portable Strategies

With the advent of hub houses, the fact of the matter is that we’re often using these portable shelters more like permanent ones.  Still we know that these can be rather easily moved, so my approach is to put out a modest spread of baits, knowing full well that there’s the opportunity to easily move.  Most often, I’ll run one set-line – call it a bobber rod or deadstick – and do my best to run a jigging rod immediately nearby.  The setline usually is a plain hook or lightly dressed jig with active live-bait threaded on.  The jigging rod is a dinner bell.  Hard baits of all varieties work well here, especially loud baits with rattles that push vibrations throughout the water column to as many fish’s lateral lines as possible. 

The general idea is to draw fish into your spread so that you can show them your offerings, such that even if they don’t close on the really aggressive baits, they’re directly adjacent to a free-swimming minnow or more neutral enticement.  Keep in mind however that with a portable, you still have the option of moving throughout the day.  This means that bobber rods or deadsticks are more likely to come into play than tip-ups or rattle reels.  I find that keeping everything attached to a rod and reel allows for easier transport.

Permanent and Wheelhouse Approaches

I recoil from the thought that fishing out of a stationary shelter is limiting or otherwise lazy.  It certainly can be, but that would be like saying open water trolling is simply dragging crankbaits around until the dumb ones eat.  In the boat of a good troller, you might as well be in a science room with a lab-coat.  Variables abound, from depth, color, size, shape, bait-length, boat speed, line-distance, line-type, snap selection, location, etc., the opportunities for discovery are endless.  Soo too is it for an active wheelhouse or permanent.  Consider the house your personal lab, and a chance to really spread your wings and flex some muscles.

Tip-ups here come into play in a very big way, as you’re camping out for awhile or maybe the rest of the winter.  You can cover a sizeable distance in any direction, while offering various species at different depths, wholly different looks.  Rattle reels inside of the house become a big part of your strategy also in order to take advantage of the total number of lines you’re legally afforded given the number of people in your shelter.  On both looks I’m continually experimenting between different forms of live-bait and size, along with hook type (horizontal vs. vertical), line, weight, bobber vs. no-bobber, etc.  Like when trolling, let the fish tell you what the magic of the moment is and be ready to adapt immediately. 

Of course, ringing the dinner bell is just as important now, similar to the way that a fancy dinner spread is only possible if there are guests at the table.  Especially for long wheelhouses or permanent structures, consider people alternating holes, and fishing opposite ends to draw in fish from even greater distance surrounding.  I’ve personally seen on underwater camera the same fish identified by unique markings, a split fin, etc., directly seek-out an aggressive offering from either end of a 21-foot shelter.  That same fish won’t always commit to the fish-bell, but quite often you look down at the nearby bobber to see it buried beneath the ice. 

Stationary doesn’t have to mean sedentary, so keep working out there.  Of course, you can take a break and let the fact that just having lines down and fishing is better than sitting on the couch.  Especially during prime-times and low-light periods however, lockdown and be ready to tend a variable spread of differing bait options and delivery methods to make the most of your time on the water.     

Wheelhouse Buying Guide

The wheelhouse market has exploded in recent years, giving way to some really comfortable fishing and even year-round fun.  That said, the options these days are endless, as can be the price tag, so it’s up to you to do the homework and get the most bang for your buck.  I recently put in an order for my own wheelhouse, and know from experience that settling in on a few key purchase points will help make the process go more smoothly.  Not only will you fish better, you’ll sleep easier knowing that no matter what part of the buying spectrum you bought in at you’ll be getting the most you can for the money.

Size– It’s easy to say that you’ll want the biggest house on the block, but think long and hard about how you fish.  While an smaller model may fit the budget better, my dealer tells me that there’s a good percentage of buyers that trade back in for bigger houses a year or two down the road.  If you’re already on the fence regarding how big you’ll go, you may want to err on the larger sizes.  Tandem axle trailers, though scary to some, offer a good degree of comfortable trailering on-the-road, and offer larger capacities in terms of weight and storage when in use. 

Structure - While you’re at it, what’s the frame made out of?  Steel and wood are cheaper, but they also rust and rot.  Aluminum frames and body make for a much lighter and potentially more rigid shell, while solving many of the ongoing maintenance concerns to the backbone of your trailer.  Speaking of ongoing, a 3-5 year warranty should be standard for any well-made wheelhouse, but all the warranty in the world won’t make much difference if the company folds.  That’s why I’d recommend going with an experienced manufacturer who’ll be around to answer the phone down the road if you have questions or issues.

Resale – This is confusing to many people, as the last thing on anyone’s mind when considering a big wheelhouse purchase is when or how they’ll be selling it.  That said, the longtime saying regarding the first and last day of a boat’s ownership is the best really also applies here.  Any big-ticket item like this will have a sunset date, and if you’re unsure as to when that may occur, it really behooves you to spend up on quality in the event you do own it for many, many years.  Just like any bit of modern technology, the better you buy at the outset, the less outdated you’ll be in years to come.  The good part is that Craigslist, Facebook ads, and dealership visits can give you a great picture of what resale may be 3 years, 5 years, or more down the road.

Quality - A good start is to look for fine craftsmanship inside and out.  Is the interior wood finished, the floor insulated, and wiring connections soldered and heat-shrunk?  Many wheelhouses offer what appear to be ample storage and cupboard space, but open the doors and you’ll find plumbing and heating equipment, pipes, and electrical runs.  Another place to look are the windows, of which any old Recreational Vehicle (RV) design is fine until it’s 20 below and condensation with re-freeze disallows you actually using them to vent.  Look for home-quality glass and substantially built offerings from all wall fixtures, shelves, cabinets, doors and windows.

Versatility – I’m a firm believer that with the cost of any wheelhouse these days, it better be just as good in the summer as it is in the winter.  To that end, you’re looking for many features found in the latest RV’s, which includes an installed Air Conditioning unit on top.  Many models come wired for it, but know that to make it truly flexible for all seasons you’ll likely want it cooled.  If you need to haul an ATV, UTV, or other items, consider a drop-door in the rear that’ll allow you to drive into your “toy-hauler.”

RV Certification - It's a little-known fact that summer use of a wheelhouse can be limited depending on whether or not your unit is RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) certified.  Depending on the municipality, along with state and local regulations, some campgrounds may not permit the use of non-RV-certified wheelhouses.  This is because RV-certified house manufacturers are subject to random inspections, and adhere to codes that cover electric, plumbing, brake lights, heating and fire safety.  Ultimately, if you're interested in parking your fish-house on more than just ice, this could be a big part of your purchasing decision that is both convenient and protective.

Storage and Carrying Capacity – Storage is what really sets these wheelhouses apart, as you’ll often be packing for extended stays with multiple people.  Keeping organized on ice is a key to your fishing success when dodging all of the items your average hotel room contains, so well thought-out options that fully utilize the whole space are a premium.  So is the vehicle weight rating.  If you’ll be using this house in the summer as a “toy-hauler” you need to figure in the weight of the unit you’re hauling, plus gear, RV water and/or waste tanks.

Dealership – Shopping for the right dealer can be as important as the actual purchase of your wheelhouse, as working with someone local and trustworthy is both convenient and crucial to this process.  A good dealer works with product-lines that have a strong support network, with both dealer and brand supporting one another before AND after the sale.  Use common sense, and see how dealers react to the questions you pose.  If they’re defensive, have excuses, or otherwise don’t address your concerns, chances are they’re not someone you should consider doing business with.      

Price vs. Value – For most, this is where the rubber meets the road, and getting what you pay for is evident in a number of ways.  The trick is evaluating these options, and determining what you can and cannot do without.  In other words, I found that similar to a boat purchase, you get what you pay for.  Often, extra dollars invested in the front end reap rewards several-fold in terms of trouble-free service, longer-lasting products, and higher re-sale value when you eventually go to sell it.  Needs change constantly as our families, fishing, and lifestyles adapt, and it helps to go into this process knowing that you can always sell, upgrade, or trade-in to fit the needs of the future.  That is, provided you’re buying in a popular brand, model, and size such that you’ll always have the opportunity to get out from under it should anything change.  For that reason, I’m a strong proponent in buying reputable, well-built equipment with a strong warranty and track record.  Treat it well, and you’ll have a wheelhouse that serves you well and maintains value over time no matter how you use it.

Ice Augers - The Switch From Gas to Electric

Electric ice augers have been the craze of the winter fishing market for the past decade or more, but recent advances in batteries have accelerated that surge.  Following national trends in everything from home and garden tools to our vehicles, there are definitely some things to like about electric-powered ice augers.  Gas, oil, and everything that goes along with carbureted small engines can be messy and troublesome, but electric is no silver bullet and can come with its own complications.  Like any tool, there are scenarios where it shines, and like any discipline, few products can serve all purposes equally well.  After running many models of both electric and gas-powered augers, here’s some rationale to what I plan to run and why.

Gas augers have longevity on their side.  The engineering concepts have been tested, tried, and re-created to serve about any interest an ice-angler would ever need, and more importantly, the mistakes attributed to poor design have been for the most part weeded-out.  De-compression valves make them easier to crank, pre-mixed gas and oil combinations make them easier to fuel, and laser-sharp curved blades make them cut faster by shaving ice rather than pulverizing it like the chipper models of old. 

Still, anything with gas can leak, flood, or otherwise create issues when subjected to the conditions we as ice-anglers put our augers through.  Not to mention, the burning of said gas, especially in confined areas like a fish-house is alone enough for many people to consider the switch to electric.  The upside to gas however, is that it’s a very efficient power source when compared to our current electric offerings, meaning if you’re drilling lots of holes through thick ice, electric batteries may not get you as many holes punched as your gas auger once did.  At the end of the day, that may or may not be a deal-breaker for anglers that fish well into the late-ice period when extensions are often needed for the northern portions of the ice-belt.  Though it’s a small percentage of ice anglers, for the dedicated hole-hopper who punches more than 100 holes in a sitting through thick ice, stick with gas for the time being.  

Lithium battery technology has carried electric augers much futher in recent years, with faster charging and more importantly, longer battery life that simply leads to more holes in thicker ice.  For the exclusive hard-house angler who punches a handful of holes in a shelter, then maybe a few tip-up holes outside, about any electric will do and I see few reasons to own a gas auger.  That’s a strong statement I never thought I’d utter, but after a few years of electric auger use under my belt, I’ve found the market to be full of great options to serve that need.

Decisions on gas vs. electric are much more difficult for ‘tweeners like myself.  For early ice, I’m roaming the shallows and punching lots of holes, which eventually gives way to more portable house fishing and then mid-winter drop-down or permanent shelter fishing.  As ice grows thicker and fishing gets tougher, especially on the big walleye and perch factories of the north, success is often predicated on drilling many holes and actively finding fish.  Then, the late-ice period hits with fewer holes needed, better fishing found, but thicker ice encountered. 

While it would be difficult to select one auger to excel in all of those scenarios, I’ve seen and tested enough to know that the top-end Lithium powered electric augers can serve nearly all of my ice fishing needs.  For that reason, I’m throwing in on the electric craze myself and running a 40V version as my primary auger for this ice season.  It’s been a long-time coming, yet I’ve been reticent to switch until now because of the sheer number of holes I drill in an average ice outing.  I’ll still tote a gas auger on the handful of occasions I’m ice trolling late season up on Mille Lacs, Lake of the Woods, Upper Red Lake, or Winnipeg, but those are relatively rare scenarios to the way most people fish on most lakes.

I’m not talking about cordless drills with adapter kits or the electric versions which utilize a 12V lead-acid battery.  These units have their place, but to truly cover all of your bases for an entire season on ice, I’m talking about a dedicated ice auger with an affixed high voltage, high amperage, Lithium power source.  The kind that’ll drill 100 holes per charge, be exhaust-free inside or out, and make ice chips fly with the push of a button.  These units are as light or lighter than the comparable gas version, and the cutting power doesn’t make you wish you had your old auger back. 

If you’ve been torn between the performance of gas and the many benefits of electric, a few new offerings on the electric side of the market may provide you the impetus to switch as well.  While I know that the technology will get better and better, allowing me to eventually have all of my cake and eat it too, the benefits of electric have now grown too great to sit it out another year.    

From Now Until Ice-Up

From Now Till Ice-Up

Ice anglers are a nervous bunch it seems from about the time of the whitetail rut, all throughout November.  Even if ice doesn’t come in their neck of the woods until December, it seems we find more ways to worry about getting ready for it than we do once it’s actually here.  While I can’t do anything about ice-formation, I can certainly give you a peek at my pre-ice checklist.  Get the prep-work done, then rest easy until we get some single digits and calm winds.

Auger

Traditionally, gas-powered engines have made this the first item on my checklist.  Should you need a carburetor adjust or other fix, you might be a few weeks out.  Better to work on this one sooner than later, while service center lines are short and turnaround times are quick.  To prep any auger, you first need winter-blend fuels sold in the ice-belt usually anytime in November.  Pre-mix your fuel, or purchase some of the handy pre-mixed gas in a can.  Check your spark plug, auger flighting, and blade sharpness, then turn over the engine.  If you’re choking and adjusting throttle like mad just to get it to fire, think how much harder that’s going to be on a frozen sheet of ice.  Of course, if you’re part of the electric auger crowd, simply test your batteries, blades, and general condition to make sure you’re ready to drill first ice.

Shelter

This comes next on my list as I want to make sure I have time to assess any items that may be broken, torn, or otherwise not functional.  Then I still have ample time to replace items or add new ones like a light bar, cargo nets, hooks, etc.  Were you sick of the bottom of your portable shelter sled holding snow and water last year?  Consider drilling small holes at the back end of the sled in the bottom of the runner wells.  That way, as your gear warms and dries, simply prop up the front part of your shelter to allow water to drain out.

Electronics

A quick look at your battery and its condition, as well as general operation of the unit itself completes the trifecta of your big-ticket item pre-ice checklist.  Look for a shifting screen, poorly lit marks, loose knobs, frayed cables, or loose connections.  All of these issues can be carry-overs from the year prior and will make the new year on ice that much more difficult.  Again, customer service waits are very short right now, but will be long when everyone breaks out their flasher for the first time of the new season.  Stay ahead of the curve and be ready to fish when others aren’t.

Outerwear and Boots

This could be one of the most overlooked areas to prep for all ice anglers.  Especially early ice, you’re often fishing outside of a shelter or at least roaming the open ice to check for safety.  Consider a floating bib and jacket combination that’s designed for the ice, and line its pockets with everything you’ll need.  Headlamps, bait-pucks, hand-towels, measuring tapes, superline scissors, GPS, and forceps all fit inside the pockets of my on-ice outerwear.  Boots are a subject unto themselves, but make sure yours don’t leak, and consider equipping them with ice cleats for slick first ice.

One of the most overlooked aspects of pre-ice prep, is getting your Outerwear and what you put in it, squared away.  

 Tackle

I start with putting fresh line on every ice reel I own.  It’s cheap insurance, and tiny 500 series reel spools are made to create memory in ice line.  Make sure that reels are firmly taped and/or seated on rod seats, and that everything fits into your transportation tote or rod-box of choice.  Consider how you’ll fish, where, and for what species.  Go through the scenarios of what species you’ll likely fish for and where.  Configure your storage solutions accordingly.  For me, it’s Ziploc bags for small jigs and plastics, individually labeled and sorted, then stuffed into a tackle bag.  For hard baits and spoons, I run a series of small boxes that I can separate easily and keep on my person only what I need.  Rarely do I bring everything, but I’m still striving for the perfect solution as we all are.  Regarding bait, consider buying in bulk, as I’ll typically buy 1000 euros at a time then dip ice pucks into that stock as necessary to refill.  If they’re left outside to freeze or otherwise die, you haven’t lost it all and you need to restock less often.

Lastly, and this is the fun part, gather all of your ice tackle in a single location, spread them out on the floor and admire how large the pile has become.  Make sure to do so in the absence of your significant other, or you’ll likely be prevented from ever adding to it again.  Go through old baits, replace hooks as needed and more than anything, take good inventory on what needs re-stocking.  Be honest with yourself.  This is a difficult task.  Work new baits and lures into the rotation, but do so sparingly, and then, only in a few selected colors and sizes.  Instead, focus on your staples, and make sure you have plenty multiples of them.  The worst thing you can do when shopping for lures is to buy a smattering of one each in various lure types.  Instead, do your research and know your fishing style, then make educated and targeted purchases in multiples of the colors and sizes of baits you know you’ll make use of this winter.  While it can be more expensive, you’re far more likely to have what you need when using this system.  I’ve more recently been a fan of shopping for these items online, mostly because I can order these multiples with greater ease, and typically the stock is virtually limitless.  Still, whether online or in-store, supply can be sold thin if you wait too long.  This is especially true for brand new lures and baits that get a good amount of press.   

From here, you’re more prepared than the vast majority of your ice-fishing brethren, and for good reason, first ice can be the best fishing of the year.  So fill your deer tags, get some fresh winter blend fuel in that ice auger, and wait until mother nature gives us the icy layer we need to walk on water.

The Best Anglers Find Their Ice Spots Right Now

Photo Credit - Matt Adddington Photography

Ice-fishing has undergone an interesting transformation in the past few years especially.  As social media ice-thickness reports hit the internet by the hour, we get on ice collectively faster than we once did.  A legion of mobile ice-anglers get out in their portables sooner than ever, scouring at first the shallows then pushing deep as ice permits.  Yet there is a growing group of wheelhouse anglers that fish in comfort weeks and months later, waiting until the ice becomes thick enough to support both truck and drop-down trailer.  No matter which group you’re in, eventually you’ll hit the lake in search of fish, and just like in school it pays to do your homework.

As ice-anglers, our mobility though better than it’s ever been, is drastically limited by the reality and need to drill a hole in ice to gather information.  So why not put in the work when it’s easy?  Using electronics from a boat to find fish, and more importantly find areas that will gather fish, is far easier on a 60 degree fall day than a 10 degree winter one.  Yet it’s surprising to see so few anglers take advantage of the easy ice-scouting that presents itself in our fall months.  In all honesty, I never stop thinking about ice, and no matter when I’m fishing during the open water months, my mind is racing to determine locations that look “fishy” from an ice-angling perspective. 

Many times, these locations are consistent producers during all months, yet others are specifically good for ice and not during the bulk of the open-water period.  The latter types include shallow transitions from mud to sand, or sand to rock, as well as small gravel or rock patches marooned again in shallow weeds or non-like surrounding substrates.  Early ice fish push to these places, especially after sundown in clear-water systems.  Spots that are no larger than a kitchen table can seem impossible to drill out and find, while they stick out like a sore thumb on a side-scan of any random shoreline. 

Side-scan technology could be the number one asset to an ice-angler during this time of year, as few things hide from it, even in heavy weed cover or timber.  Even if you don’t own this technology, chances are you know someone who does and you could get out for a day on the boat with them.  Spend time getting to know the system in either case, and make sure to idle at the proper pace to provide the very best image you can.  In general, harder bottom areas show up brighter or “whiter” and soft bottom shows up darker, and aside from timber, fish-cribs, or other sunken gems, you’re looking for any break or transition in the substrate.  The more sudden that change is, often the more valuable it can be. 

For the early ice angler, think first about how you access the water-bodies you like to fish.  Chances are, even if you’re walking out on slick-ice that sleds and gear slide neatly over, your spots will be within a ½ mile of your access point.  So focus on the areas immediately adjacent to shore that are within a half-mile ice shuffle.  Shallow water usually provides the first opportunities to fish on safe ice, so don’t worry about anything more than 15 feet at first.    

That’s a great starting point, but realize that eventually you may head out with an ATV, snowmobile, or other ice vehicle.  As ice-thickness progresses, so too does the season and fishing locations.  The first-break off of shore is now another focus area and reason for a completely separate scan.  Stay within 100 feet or so of that break and complete another pass or two until you feel you both understand the variation in that break, and identify key points along it that may concentrate fish activity. 

If you know you won’t be pulling your house onto the lake until vehicle traffic is safe, you’re looking at mid-winter fish locations.  Off shore reefs, rock piles, or islands can be key locations to drop a wheelhouse, and are typically well-marked with many of the contour mapping options we have today.  That said, the devil’s in the details, and small changes in that structure are readily visible again with side-scan technology. 

The mistake many ice-anglers make at this point is marking the spot “generally.”  Just because you can find the underwater point, or even the spot on the rock-pile where boulders are largest, doesn’t mean you’re located on a part of the structure that gives you the best chance for success.  From experience, I can say that this kind of knowledge comes only from scanning it from a boat via multiple angles, dropping waypoints in various locations to pinpoint what you feel is the best location, then following that up on ice with underwater camera work to ensure you’re dropping down on fish. 

If all of this sounds quite involved for a few fish, I would agree.  That said, if you’re the kind of angler that always wonders what they’re biting like “over-there,” you can put much of that uneasiness to rest with a thorough accounting of what you’re looking at well before you drill the first hole of the season.  That type of inventory is without a doubt, best done without ice on the lake.